Housed in the Fine Arts Building, the TCU Historic Costume Collection showcases an impressive range of iconic fashion pieces spanning from the 19th century to contemporary times.
As “The Great Gatsby” marks its 100th anniversary, the Roaring Twenties remain a defining era in fashion history. From flapper dresses to Art Deco elegance, the novel’s influence on style endures. We spoke with Stephanie Bailey, senior instructor of fashion merchandising, about how fashion shapes storytelling and why Gatsby’s aesthetic continues to inspire designers and consumers a century later.
Stephanie Bailey, senior instructor of fashion merchandising and curator of the TCU Historic Costume Collection.
How accurately does “The Great Gatsby” portray the fashion of the era?
Noting that it is a work of fiction is a good place to start. As I have studied the 1920s and researched people with first- and secondhand experience, I think it is safe to say that “The Great Gatsby” is an exaggerated depiction of life for a select few during that time. It seems that the divide between the “haves” and “have-nots” was ever-increasing.
There were many political changes, including Prohibition, which ultimately decreased respect for authority in America. Additionally, women’s right to vote was a significant step forward — transformative, though perhaps differently than we think. Women were still not allowed to have bank accounts, meaning they remained financially dependent despite gaining the right to vote.
How do the costumes in the film convey aspirational dressing and social status?
Dress is the first form of non-verbal communication we send and receive. In movies, costumes allow storytellers to explore this communication without incorporating it into the dialogue. However, for this visual language to be effective, the audience must understand its meaning.
Today, many viewers perceive the film as a representation of the entire population rather than a glimpse into a specific segment of society. Just as in the 1920s, we consider our society to be more open, leading some individuals to attempt to elevate their social status by wearing items that convey wealth and prestige beyond their actual means.
Why do you think this era continues to captivate the fashion world and pop culture?
In the 1920s, following a war, there were political shifts toward equity, economic prosperity for some and technological advancements trickling into everyday life. Socially, youth was highly valued, and there was little focus on the future and this silhouette and look was valued.
It seems so free — they just partied, had a great social life and had no worries. But, like today, this lifestyle was only for the economically advantaged, not everyone. They had stresses too, and many were not participating in this type of lifestyle. Still, it sure seemed like it was carefree and who would not like to live that life?
Do you think “The Great Gatsby” would have the same cultural impact if it had been set in a different era?
My theory is that when influencing factors — political, economic, technological and social — are similar, people tend to react in the same way. The impact of a small group of young people in the 1920s was significant, driving drastic changes in fashion that ultimately influenced everyone.
Perhaps the idea of the “good old days” is applied to the 1920s more than other eras because of the Great Depression that followed, making the decade seem even more glamorous in hindsight.